Gault&Millau

15.5 / 20 points Scoring

During our culinary excursion to Kleinwalsertal, hosts and chefs from renowned establishments repeatedly raved about Felix Bantel and suggested that we visit the Sonnenstüble at the Hotel Birkenhöhe. So we ended up – obediently – in the cosy parlour, looked after and catered for by the cheerful staff and delighted by the wonderfully comprehensive wine list. No less interesting was the menu, which included a duet of organic goose liver with lightly smoked pigeon and braised celeriac with hazelnuts and Périgord truffle, followed by a roast fillet of gilthead with bean ragout, chorizo and crispy focaccia and a tarte à la reine – a porcini tart with leeks, potatoes and a wonderful beurre blanc. The really successful evening, during which we also get to meet the (still) rather shy master chef, is rounded off with “chocolate meets rum” – a feast for the eyes as well as the palate – and wonderful homemade confectionery. A discovery!